Following my great nipple epiphany a few weeks ago, I thought I’d have another go at doing a full bust adjustment on the Colette Sorbetto.
Using the actual position of my nipples as the bust apex puts the adjustment point a lot further out from the centre front, which actually makes it seem like a much smaller adjustment; I increased the front width by an inch which added a good inch to the depth of the dart, but almost nothing to the length of the front, and the armhole kept its shape much better too. It’s definitely an improvement on last time, when the darts were far too long. I think it looks pretty good from the front now.
Unfortunately, I can’t really say the same for the other angles.
I think I probably need to go up a size before I start adjusting; the back is definitely too narrow and there’s pulling across the upper chest as well, even though the size I started with this time is the one that should fit my high bust measurement and that’s what all the tutorials tell me to go for.
I suspect the darts could do with being a little bit higher, too. But hey, it’s progress!
Sunday afternoons, from about the middle of the Food Programme to the end of the Classic Serial, seem to have become my sewing times; T is generally watching rugby and I retreat upstairs to my craft room.
This afternoon I made a first muslin of the bodice of the Colette Pastille dress.
I cut a size 10 at the top of the bodice, based on my 38″ high bust measurement, and a size 14 at the waist (because my waist and hip measurements mean I definitely need the size 14 skirt), and then attempted a 1″ full bust adjustment.
It’s definitely an improvement on my Sorbetto attempts; the bust darts turned out pretty well (I ignored the original placing and redrew them level with the apex of my bust, following this tutorial) but I didn’t take account of the fact that this put the bust darts more or less level with the points of the waist darts, which I should have shortened. Having tried the muslin on, I think I should probably have actually cut a size 8 with a bigger bust adjustment, as I clearly didn’t add enough length in the centre front, and I think I also need to shorten the back so the back waist seam sits above the point where my bum begins. Also, next time I’m going to sew up the back (where the zip should go) and leave one of the side seams open as that will make it much easier to pin myself into it!
It’s definitely getting there, though it’s hard work and I’ve still got a long way to go. Of course, part of the problem is that until I started thinking about how to make things fit properly and took lots of measurements I was convinced I was top-heavy with narrowish hips and not much in the way of curves apart from my chest, whereas in fact my waist and hips are a good two sizes bigger than my top half would be with the ‘standard’ B/C cup and the only reason I have to buy tops the same size as skirts (or even slightly bigger) is because I’m so very definitely not a standard B/C cup. And of course, fitting issues aren’t exactly helped by the fact that I’m a completely different shape to my mental image of myself!